A delightful deli hidden in plain sight
Windhoek is a painfully hospitable city. Not only are it’s citizens sweet enough to give you cavities, but you’ll wake up to a 27°C heat that refuses to let you out its affectionate embrace.
The needy mate I’d made of Namibia’s capital meant that I couldn’t walk 200 meters without sweating from its affection. This displeased me. I like to walk through a city I visit because I want to feel the pulse. The hums, mumbles and private chitter chatter of people I pass create the rhythm of the city.
Though I felt smothered by the local climate, I was incredibly grateful for the times we’d gather for a meal. Having spent 15 minutes with my head in a sink of cold water, and another 20 minutes horrifying my roommate with verbal fantasies about cooling my eyes off in a grape and blueberry slushie, we agreed to cure my delirium with food. So we met up with some friends at Krisjans.
Windhoek’s culinary industry is a proving one. Local institutions like Joe’s Beerhouse and The Warehouse act like the yeast and warm water, working to give rise to innovative eateries. Affectionately named after the owner's dog, Krisjans responded to the mandate by opening a decoration of delicatessens across the country.
Like stepping into a typical cafe or canteen in Parkhurst, Krisjans has an ease to it. The rustic floor and counters are accented by European influences, like french awnings and a powder blue Vespa camouflaged in the corner.
After trying Bratwurst and mopane worms for the first time last night, I'm looking to hazard anything ambitious.
While we wait for the fourth in our party to arrive, we decide the shakshouka eggs, tamatie bredie, and spicy lamb sarmie look good.
A bottle of water arrives for the table, accompanied by three glasses crammed with ice.
Vee orders a berrylicious smoothie, Shimbi decides on an apple kiwi soft-tail,
and because the kitchen hasn’t stocked up on vanilla or gingerbread or toffee cordial, I settle for an apple pie iced coffee.
Whether it's the harrowing hangover, the unrelenting heat or the mouthwatering menu, we can’t wait any longer for Anna. As we call for our waiter, she appears, belly itching as though the food gods themselves have summoned her.
Without looking at the menu she orders a chicken burger - no cheese, side of fresh chili. Shimbs decides on the french toast with strawberry and apple salsa; the shokshouka is speaking to Vee. I order a bacon and egg sarmie because I don't want to be disappointed by the deficient pantry again.
When our plates arrive, they looked a real treat. Vee's choice is the obvious crowd-favourite. The waiter hasn't set her baked eggs down and our scavenging forks are already circling. Our gracious friend brakes off pieces of sourdough and offers up her plate for our individual tasters.
In one mouthful, my palate plunges into the depth of flavours. Though Vee has to spoon through a number of bay leaves while eating, the sweetness of the stewing herb and notes of basil pesto saved a tomato sauce that would've been extremely tart otherwise.
From then, it becomes a kind of a tapas brunch. I'm curious to find out how a tomato and onion looking salsa made it onto Shimbi's dish.
The acidity of the strawberry and apple, tossed in lemon juice cuts right through the sweetness of the maple syrup - and my skepticism. The rich eggy bread melts in my mouth.
Both mine and Anna's plate don't get as much excitement as the other two. They're tasted anyway, to save face.
When I get my plate back, I immediately regret playing it safe. Here, I'd travelled over 2000 kms to eat something I make myself for breakfast twice a week. But I appreciate perfectly toasted bread, crispy bacon and piping hot fries as much as the next amateur foodie.
And that got me thinking. If a restaurant can't get the basics right (pizzerias that butcher a classic Margherita, I'm talking about you!!) then you certainly can't trust them to deliver on more demanding dishes.
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Windhoek is a city full of surprises, it takes new visitors in like a challenge. If you haven't been before, and want to have a experience it like me, you'll want to read my Live Like a Local: Windhoek piece.
If you're passing through, be sure to stop by Stellenbosh Wine Bar for a meal.
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