Seas the moment, seas the day at this beach-side oasis
"It is better to see something once, than to hear about it a thousand times." After being told only good things about the Catembe Gallery Hotel, I take the directive from this Asian proverb, pack my bags and head back to Mozambique.
Maputo's balmy winter is transitioning into a refreshing spring season when I pull up to a busy eatery in the city center. My travel companion is filed into the corner of the youthful restaurant. Typing and email with one hand and a glass in another, he drains his draft of local beer and orders another round for the pair of us, as arriving to a 2M has become somewhat of an unspoken tradition for me.
We down our drinks in record time because we don't want to miss the last ferry that takes tourists and local commuters across the Maputo bay. We pay 15 metical (met) each and pile into an already crammed tugboat.
The squeeze only lasts 10 minutes before we spill out onto an informal jetty. A throng of cars and people are waiting to get on the same ferry back to the mainland. We do our best to navigate the circus and look for a ride to the hotel. By the time the 400 met taxi cab has huffed and puffed through the dusty dirt roads of the rural village, to get us to the hotel, my friend and I are tired and irritable. The compassionate Front of House manager shows us to our room and slips away, giving us time to rest.
In all our exhaustion, we don't notice the whirlpool tub in the corner or appreciate the crisp white linen that breaks the warm mahogany wood in our chalet.
It's only in the morning, when the calming roar of the waves crashing a stone's throw from our balcony, do we realise where we are.
The historic hotel offers a number of different accommodation options to cater to small groups, couples and families. Any of the three penthouses can sleep up to 4, 7 and 5 people respectively, while the standard rooms and luxury rooms accommodate 2 guests. The four bayview chalets (one of which we have been given for a few days) sleeps 2 people as well.
After a long shower and a lazy breakfast, I take a wander. I want to experience the gallery aspect of the glorious hotel.
The art exceeds all my expectations (though I must admit I had none going in). The space is eclectic. Every stylistic choice complements the other and honors the mosaic-inspired look and feel of the city across the bay. It feels authentic and truly Mozambican.
I can tell the interior designer has made an effort to ensure guests don't feel isolated from Maputo but still get to enjoy time away from the city's hustle and bustle. There is such attention to detail. With doors, fan blades and lights artworks of their own, it truly feels like we are vacationing in a gallery.
Satisfied with the discoveries I've made, I make my way back to the chalet. I want to slip my cozzie on and frolic in the waves. The sun is already beginning to set on a typically sweltering day and I'd like a sea-salt scrub before dinner.
But when I'm greeted by a packed ice bucket, bottle of whiskey and two thirsty tumblers, it is clear that my roommate has other plans. He pours us two generous drinks and we proceed to do our own version of the Maputo shuttle, at dusk.
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Having a place to stay in Maputo will offer you peace of mind, finding fun things to do will ensure you enjoy your vacation. My Live Like a Local: Maputo piece has insider info on the best restaurants, bars, markets and events in the city.
Check out some of my favourite eateries like Dhow and Txhapo Txhapo.
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