Eating, Swaying and Loving eSwatini

House on Fire's inaugural Standard Bank Luju Food and Lifestyle Festival was certainly the, "unique celebration of tastes, smells, sights and sounds," we'd hope for.

If you've ever attended the MTN Bushfire Festival6 then you are no stranger to this magical location. The area truly lives up to its name; House on Fire is at the heart of Ezulwini valley which means 'heaven' in SiSwati. The clay creations and multicoloured mosaics found in the Sculpture Garden lay the perfect foundation for the Luju Festival.

You could swear it hadn't been worryingly wet and cold the day before. The sun is treating us to a balmy day, though the cool breeze serves as a precursor to the temperature drop we plan to dance through this evening.

This is my first time eSwatini. The performing Vagabond In Power who's invited me to attend the festival with him knows the drill but I cant seem to sit still as we drive into the already populated venue. Bright eyed and bushy tailed I am craning my neck to see what lays behind each pillar, pole and door.

It's only mid-morning but the foodies and farming fundi's are wanting to make the most of the culinary programme. Being a food writer myself, I hotfoot it towards the amphitheater while my companion sets up onstage. I only manage to catch the last two minutes of a talk on the connections between food and ritual, and the importance of it. Enthralled, I decide to stay for the presentation on permaculture.

What follows are demonstrations by J'Something, from South African house band Mi Casa, and a braai masterclass from Food Alchemist Pete Goffe-Wood.

My stomach rumbles, and my mouth waters in agreement. I leave the amphitheater but decide to take the scenic route towards the food garden. While my Very Important Person friend mixes music on the main stage, I amble about - enjoying the soundscape and the sights.

The theme for the first Standard Bank Luju Festival is African Vintage. Attendees have really taken to the directive as everyone has come dressed to impress.

If they're not draped in traditional prints, they're crowned with intricate headdresses.

Knowing my mother won't forgive me if I visit a country and return without a keepsake for her, I head to the market to find locally-made trinkets and trifles. Luju has organized vendors selling an assortment of jewelry and upcycled accessories, grooming merchandise for men and masai blankets. Thumbing through a clothing rail, I get a text message that brings my mission to a halt.

It's finally time to eat and though I've promised myself that I'd try a little of everything, I'm wearing a crop top so I'll have to limit myself if I want to avoid the bulge of a food baby.

There are fusion tacos on one side, pregos rolls on the other. Cake pops for the sweet toothed and a fully stocked bar waits on those wanting to toast at gin o'clock. Attendees with an appetite can appease themselves with everything from Ethiopian food to Chinese cuisine. Smoothies, wraps and matapa - the list of offerings is extensive. Unfortunately, eSwatini being the meat eating nation it is, there aren't a lot of vegan/vegetarian options. This bothers me none but my companion isn't exactly as spoilt for choice as I am. He settles on traditional injera with a few spoonfuls of shiro wot, fosoliya, missar wot and keysirr wot.

After a few glasses of wine we meander aimlessly. The sun is setting behind the rolling hills of sugar cane. Though the festival certainly isn't over, I begin to miss this country that I've just met.

eSwatini is a easy country to fall in love with. There's an ease to the climate and the people that I've only ever experienced in Mozambique. I'm caught in a kind of happiness hysteria.

The Rebirth of Cool are performing a mashup of Hugh Masekela's Tonight and Smokey Robinson's Cruisin' when I come to. My friend and I have managed to sneak a bottle of wine into the VIP section and the pair of us are school boying it before the someone catches us. A combination of post bebop jazz and hip hop pours out the speakers as we move to the beat.

Albert Frost plays and then the great Thandiswa Mazwai takes to the stage.

Her performance is electric. King Tha commands the stage, arrests our attention and keeps our eyes fixed on her steampunk spiked goggles the entire performance. When I'm not stomping to the tremor her drummer punctuates her lyrics with, I'm singing along to classics I grew up to, word-for-word.

Her set leaves me spent, sweaty and satisfied.

We head back to the food garden to grab some dinner. Most of the vendors are packing up their depleted stalls but luckily there is a lone caterer still making fries - a festival staple - and we make a beeline for him. On our way back to the main stage, we bump into Jiggs and Nozipho, the couple behind this fantastic festival, and they invite us for a glass of wine during Mi Casa's set. We agree, and end up spending the rest of the evening dancing to house music.

images sourced

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Attending a festival is like running a marathon: you need stamina and sustenance. Having a few under my belt, I thought I'd quip a Festival Survival Guide for novices considering any interesting events this season.

My trip to Swaziland formed part of a larger holiday to Maputo, Mozambique. Living out of a suitcase might not excite some but I've often found travel is my therapy.