Mozambique's capital city has so much to offer. If you don't know where to go or what to do you'll think it's just some beach town (which ain't a bad thing either)
An old friend recently shared an interesting theory with me. She said that throughout our lives, we will experience seven great loves. She said that, whether with a romantic partner, friend, or family member, humans only have the capacity to fall a finite number of times.
Love comes in many forms. Being the hopeless romantic I am, I've enjoyed a variety of affections from unrequited love to toxic codependency and everything in between. Five years ago, I fell into an intimacy with Maputo and it's one from which I will never recover. Three trips back have happened since and I'm slowly becoming more acquainted with the coastal city.
But, like watching a complex Christopher Nolan film, there's always a new discovery each time I visit. Though my next trip is scheduled for the first week of September, I've compiled an exciting assortment of activities that will keep you entertained for every day you're in Maputo.
Monday:
Brunch at Botanica
Described as, "a fresh green note in the heart of Maputo," this inner-city eatery offers a diverse menu of Mediterranean fusion food. Grab a table in the picturesque garden and enjoy the generously mixed cocktails with your meal of choice. Come with a huge appetite. Mozambicans don't let you leave hungry.
Dine at Dhow come dinner time
Dhow and Botanica have been locked in a cheese samoosa-off since both restaurants opened a year ago, or so the story goes. The contentious starter has Mozambican diners split. Decide for yourself by ordering the delicious amuse-bouche at both restaurants.
At Dhow, the fish you eat is naturally salted from the ocean it was caught in a few hours before; the piri piri chicken is well seasoned and succulent; the pastry is as buttery as it is flaky. Dhow is an experience. From the moment you walk into the alfredo-style dining area, the only thing that disturbs your panoramic view of Maputo's ocean is the crystal blue pool. The only time you'll have to leave this oasis is when you decide to ask for the bill. Otherwise, you can sit poolside all day, enjoying all the morsels this eatery has to offer.
Tuesday:
High tea at Chez Fred
Step into Wes Anderson's sketchbook for an afternoon. This Victorian-inspired café will treat you to chic sophistication, if you're partial to it. Smoothie bowls served in antique teacups, peanut butter crumpets, dainty Danish pastries and finger sandwiches adorn every table while diners tinkle their champagne flutes
Bet your Metical at Casino Polana
What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, can the same be said for Maputo?
I've never been one for gambling - mainly because I don't know how to play Poker or Craps - but if you have a 1000MT (roughly R250 or $16) to spare, this casino can be loads of fun. Stick to the slot machines if you don't want to blow your travel budget, and be sure to set an alarm or you'll spend more time there than you need to. Remember: winners know when to stop.
Wednessday:
Shop for fresh produce at Mercado Municipal
Maputo has a number of markets that are a flurry of excitement and wonder if you've never experienced them before. Though the Mercado de Pexie is no longer the rope of matchbox stalls it once was, the Mercado Municipal still has a lot of character.
This is where you come for the ingredients you'll need to make Matapa (curry made of Cassava leaves in coconut and peanut).
Buying your produce at this local market is cost effective, helps foster the local economy and means your fruits and veggies are fresh and organic.
Thursday:
Ferry to Inhaca Island
Maputo's mainland has a great deal to offer but a scene change never hurt anyone. The 52km long island is framed by pristine beaches. What you do with your day is entirely up to you. Snorkeling gives you a chance to discover the colourful marine life in the coral reefs that flank the island, or you can make the most of your time on the secluded beaches by sunbathing in the nude or go skinny dipping.
Bring a book for the ferry ride. Depending on the wind speed and weather, you can expect a travel time of 2+ hours.
Get a little creative at Fundação Fernando Leite Couto
Started by Fernando Leite Couto, a local writer, poet and editor who was credited as putting Mozambican literature on the proverbial map, this spaces celebrates the creative industry in the area. Through weekly exhibitions, live music events, dramatic performances and other forms of expression, the Fundação Fernando Leite Couto makes art accessible to anyone and everyone.
The in-house restaurant Sal and Grafia stocks amazing wine and makes a mean margarita cocktail.
Friday:
Feast at Maputo Fish Market (Mercado de Peixe)
A local institution, every time I visit Maputo I make a turn at this market and it never disappoints. A room full of freshly caught tiger prawns, rainbow lobster, swordfish, tilapia and so much more!
Tourists: your first time is going to be extremely overwhelming, especially if you don't speak Portuguese. The hawkers selling seafood are going to hound you and the vendors cooking the fish will badger you. Stand your ground.
Locals: you know the drill. You can take your spoils home or make the most of the outdoor dining area provided.
You'll want to roll yourself home after a lunch at Mercado de Peixe but stroll along The Marginal to work lunch off. For 150MT (R40 or $3) you can get a refreshing coconut cocktail.
Fun at FEIMA
This is where a lively afternoon turns into a festive evening. FEIMA houses craft stalls, food vendors and a small selection of carnival rides within its walls. Bargain yourself a few souvenirs to take home while you sip on local beer and listen to live music onstage.
Saturday:
Kwetu Neighbourhood Market
A commotion of locals gather on the first Saturday of every month to enjoy a banquet of East African food. But that's not all Kwetu offers.
The market is, as the organisers describe it, " a platform for art, fashion, craft, food and music celebrating culture from across the continent."
Sunday:
Ferry to Catembe for a lazy lunch along the beach
A wise man once told me, "Mozambicans have no sense of time, just a feeling. Home time is when the sun rises." It shouldn't surprise you, then, that he shared this sage wisdom while teaching me to kizomba at party at two o'clock in the morning.
I'm yet to survive a Saturday night in Maputo, but if you manage to make it home at a sane time, you'll make the noon ferry to Catembe. A short trip along the water and you'll arrive at the beach. There is an impressive selection of great restaurants you can stop at for a boozy lunch. I hear the only way to cure a hangover is to keep drinking.
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Spent all day gallivanting around the city and now you need a place to rest your head? No problem. Catembe Gallery Hotel is a magnificent boutique inn worth considering.
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