A haven of seafood so fresh, you'll buy it still swimming
One of the best-kept secrets any fish-loving foodie worth their salt should know is that you'll find an abundance of fish at the market right after it rains. Though Maputo is a city constantly sizzling at an average of 28°C, the morning rain always invites a smorgasbord of crustacean and line fish closer to the shore.
Mozambique's capital is known for having some of the best seafood in Southern Africa. Apart from the reputation their Piri Piri chicken holds, borrowing from the cooking and flavouring method of the Portuguese who previously colonized them, the size of the tiger prawns, langoustine and queenfish found along the Mozambican shore are really worth the visit.
About 6 kilometers from the CBD, a throng of taxis, tuk tuks and privately-owned cars are informally parked along the road. After paying our cab driver the fare, we hop out to three enthusiastic vendors ready to herd me and my travel partner to their stalls in the market. Intimidated by their persistence, and completely dumbfounded by the quick colloquial Portuguese they are speaking (we only learnt the basic pleasantries), we try to evade them.
But as we walk from the parking area into the Maputo Fish Market, more vendors approach us. By the time we are inside, we have a mob of fishermen surrounding us.
I am trying to be as polite as possible. I hate obnoxious tourists who insult natives but our inability to speak the language, coupled with the capture of cameras we are carrying, make us easy targets. My travel partner and I are the fish out of water in this case. We need to be smart about our purchases and bargaining or we risk being taken advantage of.
We decide on a budget and agree that we will not go over it, no matter what. With that settled, we peruse the isles of the fish market. There are clams, crab, squid, mackerel, marlin, prawns and lobster galore. Some of the fish I can easily identify, while others are so colourful, weird and wonderful, they look like they come from a sketchbook belonging to a mad scientist.
I only want one thing: tiger prawns. I've come to Maputo with a must-munch list of sorts and, with 3 days left in this beautiful city, I have to seize this opportunity to feast on fresh shellfish or I might not find another chance. Avoiding the hollering hawkers that were beginning to irritate me, I make a beeline for the last stall. There, an elderly woman is tending to the fish she has on display. Unfazed by the frenzy of the fish market, the woman adds more water to the bucket of clams on her left, then she shifts some of the fish around, giving the ones on top a chance to be more submerged in water.
As I get to her stall, I let out a deep sigh of relief. "Hi lady," the elderly woman says in plain English. Her smile is compassionate; she's can appreciate how overwhelming this new experience is for me. I tell her how much I have. She tells me it's only enough for a few tiger prawns. I accept. At this point I need to find my travel partner and flee the market.
Armed with our fish, we leave the market and walk a few metres to the seaside patio where another flurry of local entrepreneurs are waiting to cook our fish for us. We follow the first person who approaches us - we aren't going to try play the same cat and mouse game we did in the market.
A waiter flanks our table with a pitcher of warm water, soap and a basin in which we can wash our hands before the meal. I smell our feast before it arrives. An aroma of paprika, garlic, chili powder, coriander and vinegar permeates from the kitchen as the waiter brings us two plates of seafood, and an accompanying portion of fries.
I dig into my plate of grilled tiger prawns
Across the table, my travel partner wastes no time tearing his Mozambique Tilapia apart.
This fish is succulent. Having been caught only a few hours earlier, the saltiness of the sea offered enough that no more had to be added as the fish was being grilled over an open fire. The smokiness of the paprika is enhanced by the burning coals of the fire, and it cuts through the sharp acidity of the vinegar perfectly. The coriander garnish adds a fresh sweetness to an otherwise perfect dish.
Excellent ingredients, prepared in humble conditions to create a magnificent meal. It is simple and rustic but wow, it packs a punch - similar to Maputo City itself.
It's clear why this market is so popular with tourists and locals alike. In fact, coming during the week is the best decision we've made. Our waiter explains that on weekends, we would have struggled to find any fish in the market, let alone a table around which to enjoy it.
After our waiter brings some more warm water and soap for us to wash our hands, and attempt to clean our greasy faces, we pay our bill and decide to walk our meal off along the beach road. The sun is beginning to sink below the horizon. Locals have parked their cars along the highway. They have their fishing lines in hand, bait and tackle fastened to their belt; they are unwinding after a day at work, at the shore.
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Maputo is a must do! And to do it right, I'd suggest booking your stay at Catembe Gallery Hotel for its faultless service and immaculate views of the Maputo Bay.
If you're looking for more places to eat, I'd strongly suggest visiting Chef Marcelino at Txhapo Txhapo or heading to Dhow Restaurante for their legendary cheese samosas.